Crater Lake is overwhelmingly beautiful. The lake is magical, enchanting a remnant of fiery times, a reflector of its adjacent forested slopes, a product of Nature’s grand design. Few places on earth command overwhelming awe from observers, but Crater Lake, in south central Oregon, certainly does. Even in a region of volcanic wonders, Crater Lake can only be described in superlatives. Stories of the deep blue lake can never prepare visitors for their first breathtaking look from the brink of this six mile wide caldera which was created by the eruption and collapse of Mt. Mazama almost 7,000 years ago. Even seasoned travelers gasp at the 20 mile circle of cliffs, tinted in subtle shades and fringed with hemlock, fir and pine: all this in a lake of indescribable blue.
Today, the nation’s fifth oldest national park serves to stand as a memorial to time. In 1902, Congress decided that Crater Lake and its surrounding 180,000 acres were to be “dedicated and set apart forever as a public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people of the United States.”
Introduction
Stunningly beautiful and crystal-clear, Crater Lake, in south-central Oregon, is a mecca for hikers, campers, skiers and those who love scenic driving and wildlife watching. Many internal trails, such as Wizard Island and Mount Scott, plus a 30 mile segment of the Pacific Crest Trail, offer unparalleled hiking in warmer weather. In winter, some of the same trails mean stellar cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing. At the center of the 249 square mile park is the marvelous caldera the giant crater formed seven thousand years ago when a spectacular volcano erupted and collapsed. The crater filled with ice-cold water, creating what is now the seventh-deepest lake in the world. Speaking of marvelous, winters at Crater Lake are phenomenal.
In contrast to its fiery beginnings, the Park today becomes a wonderland of ice and snow during cold weather. The first flakes usually fall in October and by the season’s end, have reached a whopping total of 529 inches on average.
Although most park facilities close for the winter, visitors may cross-country ski, participate in weekend snowshoe hikes led by rangers, or simply view the lake during clear weather. During this period, weather conditions mandate being well-prepared. Visitors should plan on experiencing extreme winter conditions. Blizzards, high winds, extreme cold and low visibility dominate the weather patterns. Cold weather gear is a must.
While Crater Lake is a wonder in winter, its year-round opportunities for outdoor lovers are no less enticing. Once winter has departed, warm sunshine embraces the deep blue lake and surrounding forests to create summer days that can be described only as magnificent. Whether you choose to stay at the historic Crater Lake Lodge, camp at Mazama Village or head for the back country, you will delight summer’s bounty at Crater Lake.
In addition to hiking and camping, for example, visitors can fish for trout and salmon. In good weather, motorists may navigate the Rim Drive around the lake. Summer visitors can partake in many interpretive programs and boat tours of the lake, which encourage a deeper understanding of the environment.
Summer or winter, Crater Lake is a gem to be discovered and rediscovered. Learn why the lake is truly a wonder of nature, but no wonder it is known as the “Jewel of the Cascades.”
History & Culture
Today, the calm beauty of Crater Lake belies the violence of the earth’s forces which formed this spectacular work of nature. Crater Lake lies inside the top of an ancient volcano known as Mount Mazama. This dormant volcano is just one in a group of huge cones that extends along the crest of the Cascade Range. This range extends from Lassen Peak in California to Mount Garibaldi near Vancouver, British Columbia. Four national parks and numerous national forests protect major portions of the Cascade Range, which is a part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.
When Mt. Saint Helens erupted in 1980, millions of people were reminded that some of the world’s most potentially dangerous volcanoes lie along the Pacific Northwest coast. However, when Mount Mazama erupted approximately 7,000 years ago, the blast was 42 times greater than that of Mt. Saint Helens. Ash fallout from Mt. Mazama reached eastern Montana and into Saskatchewan, Canada. The remnants from this fiery event still evoke awesome images of the power which created the Crater Lake landscape.
Mt. Mazama began its illustrous career over 400,000 years ago. Scores of vents opened up on the mountain and released lava flows which averaged at least 20 to 30 feet in thickness. An irregularly shaped mountain began to form, today known as a shield volcano. Molten rock, or magma, oozed and spurted from these many openings until 20,000 years ago, when the volcano entered into a dormant phase. However, this was not to last forever.
The event, which heralded the doom of Mt. Mazama, was the opening of a vent somewhere on the north side of the mountain. The volcano sent up a column of ash and pumice creating a blanket of debris 20 feet thick in places. As the pressure of the underground magma grew, a series of other vents around the mountain opened up. Enormous quantities of pyroclastic, or molten rock composed of pumice, material were released. These lava flows traveled up to 25 miles beyond the base of the volcano.
As the volcano emptied itself of molten rock, an empty chamber was left underground. The mass of the mountain collapsed in on this void within a matter of days after the eruption. What was left, a 4,000 foot deep caldera and a myriad of other geologic formations, have awed and inspired people for generations. Crater Lake National Park is dedicated to preserving this environment for the study and enjoyment of future generations.
Local Native Americans witnessed the collapse of Mount Mazama and kept the event alive in their legends. One ancient legend of the Klamath people closely parallels the geologic story, which emerges from today’s scientific research. The legend tells of two Chiefs, Llao of the Below World and Skell of the Above World, pitted in a battle, which ended up in the destruction of Llao’s home, Mt. Mazama. The battle was witnessed in the eruption of Mt. Mazama and the creation of Crater Lake.
The Klamaths revered the lake and the surrounding area, keeping it undiscovered by white explorers until 1853. That year three gold prospectors came upon a long, sloping mountain. Upon reaching its highest point, a huge, awe-inspiring lake was visible. “This is the bluest lake we’ve ever seen,” they reported and named it Deep Blue Lake. But gold was more on the minds of settlers at the time and the discovery was soon forgotten.
Captain Clarence Dutton commanded a U. S. Geological Survey party that carried a half-ton survey boat, up the steep slopes of the mountain then lowered it to the lake. From the stern of the boat, the party sounded the depth of the lake at 168 different points. Dutton’s soundings of 1,996 feet were amazingly close to the sonar readings made in 1959 that established the lake’s deepest point at 1,932 feet.
William Gladstone Steel devoted his life and fortune to the establishment and management of Crater Lake National Park. His preoccupation with the lake began in 1870. In his efforts to bring recognition to the park, he participated in lake surveys that provided scientific support. He named many of the lake’s landmarks, including Wizard Island, Llao Rock and Skell Head. Steel’s dream was realized on May 22, 1902 when President Theodore Roosevelt signed the bill giving Crater Lake national park status.
Crater Lake Lodge was opened in 1915 and the Rim Drive was completed in 1918. Crater Lake National Park is fast approaching its 100th birthday. The celebration of one of our nation’s oldest parks is a testament to the courage and determination of William G. Steel and the countless others who have been involved in the preservation of this national treasure. In looking to the future appreciation and preservation of this park, knowledge of its history and origins are imperative in keeping with the tradition of Crater Lake’s unique past.”
Attractions
Rim Drive
With more than 20 scenic overlooks along the way, the 33 mile Rim Drive around Crater Lake provides a multitude of spectacular views. Open only during the summer (closed to the public from mid-October to mid-June due to snow and ice buildup), this two-lane road offers access to many wonderful hikes. Trailheads leading to Garfield Peak in Rim Village, Lightning Springson the west side, Mount Scott on the east side and Crater Peak on the south side are all easily attainable from Rim Drive. On the north side, visitors find Cleetwood Cove Trail, the only trail with direct access to the lake. Kerr Notch and Sun Notch Viewpoint are wonderful places to marvel at the sights of Phantom Rock and Wizard Island. On average, allow two hours to travel completely around Crater Lake. While taking in the spectacular sights, be on the lookout for deer and other Crater Lake residents crossing the road.
Wizard Island
To gain access to the lake, hike a mile or so down the steep trail to Cleetwood Cove. Tour boats make regular trips from Cleetwood Cove to Wizard Island, a small, volcanic cone rising from the crystal blue water. For those who make the effort to get there, the views from Wizard Island offer an entirely different perspective of Crater Lake than those from the rim. Climb the 800 foot summit and gaze at the deep blue waters, look up at the beautiful rim encircling you and explore the 90 foot crater of this volcano within a volcano. Also on the island is a trail to Fumarole Bay, a favorite spot for fishing and swimming for those able to withstand the near-freezing waters.
Mt. Scott
The views from the rim are stunning, but the secret’s out. Rim Drive overlooks can get awfully crowded. Do yourself a favor and leave the car-and-camper set behind. The five mile round-trip journey up to 8,929 foot Mount Scott, the highest point within the park, can be a strenuous one. The trail is longer, steeper and has a greater elevation gain than the popular trail to Garfield Peak. Your reward comes in fewer people cluttering the trails as you ascend to the summit, named for 19th-century pioneer Levi Scott. From the top you will see the best views of the lake, as well as the peaks of surrounding mountains such as Mount Thielsen, California’s Mount Shasta and Mount Jefferson. The best time to view the lake is early morning. Be sure to bring plenty of water.
Recreation
Hiking
Crater Lake National Park’s 180,000-plus acres are mostly backcountry, with elevations range from 6,000 to 9,000 feet and laced with 90 miles of hiking trails. These footpaths are usually snow-free from mid-July to early October. Visitors can hike for several days or enjoy a walk lasting less than an hour. In addition to the many trails that start inside the park, there are several connections with paths in the surrounding National Forests such as the Pacific Crest Trail, which runs all the way from Mexico to Canada. Thirty miles of the PCT passes through Crater Lake’s backcountry. Day hikes are possible on portions of the PCT within the park, but hikers must backtrack or use two vehicles as there is no loop trail encompassing the PCT. The PCT crosses Highway 62 south of the Annie Springs Entrance en route to Medford. It crosses the North Entrance Road in the Pumice Desert Area. The total day hike covers 17 miles. The “PCT alternate,” brings hikers right up to the rim of Crater Lake, whereas previously PCT hikers could get a view of the lake only by leaving the trail and hiking into the Rim Village area.
Coming from the north, the alternate leaves the old trail at the Grouse Hill junction with the North Entrance road. The trail parallels the road up to North Junction where it follows the rim of the caldera, offering spectacular views of the lake for six miles all the way to Discovery Point. From there, the trail descends back down the Dutton Creek trail to rejoin the old trail.
Wizard Island offers excellent hiking opportunities to those who make the effort to get to it. Tour boats make regular trips to the island during the summer months. From the 800 foot summit of Wizard Island, you can peer into the clear waters of America’s deepest lake and enjoy a great view of Mount Scott and Garfield Peak. Mount Scott, in fact, is just a hop from the visitor’s center on the mainland and can round out a weekend of hiking at Crater Lake.
Mountain Biking/Road Cycling
No bicycles are allowed on any park trails. Bicycling is allowed only on paved roads, the Grayback Motor Nature Trail and the dirt trail entering the park on the east side near the Pinnacles.
Winter Sports
Winter comes early and stays late at Crater Lake. The National Park Service warns of extreme weather conditions from October to June the kind of weather conditions that provide miles of ungroomed trails to explore on skis. The rim of the lake offers some of the best cross-country skiing in the country. The granddaddy of all tours is the multi-day, 33-mile circuit of the lake. For those not interested in snow camping, the Wizard Island Overlook Trail offers spectacular views over gently rolling terrain. This five-mile round-trip ski from the Crater Lake Lodge is the most popular trail to ski and snowshoe in the park.
An average of 529 inches of snow falls on Crater Lake each year. Volunteers and park rangers lead ecology walks on snowshoes on weekends throughout the winter. Strap on a pair of snowshoes, take a walk and learn what it takes to survive a nine-month winter. Many stops are made during the hour-and-a-half tour where the leader explains how park plants and animals adapt to this winter wonderland. Check Park Headquarters or Rim Village for regularly scheduled walks. No experience is necessary, but participants should be in good physical condition. Make sure you layer your clothing, bring your camera and wear waterproof boots, gloves and a hat.
In The Area
John Day Fossil Beds National Monument
Within the heavily eroded volcanic deposits of the scenic John Day River basin is a well-preserved fossil record of plants and animals. This remarkably complete record, spanning more than 40 of the 65 million years of the Cenozoic Era (the “Age of Mammals and Flowering Plants”) is world-renown. Authorized October 26, 1974 and established in 1975, this 14,000 acre park is divided into three widely separated units; the Sheep Rock Unit, Painted Hills Unit and Clarno Unit.
Oregon Caves National Monument
Oregon Caves National Monument is small in size, 480 acres, but rich in diversity. Above ground, the monument encompasses a remnant old-growth coniferous forest. It harbors a fantastic array of plants and a Douglas-fir tree with the widest known girth in Oregon. Three hiking trails access this forest. Below ground is an active marble cave created by natural forces over hundreds of thousands of years in one of the world’s most diverse geologic realms.
Getting There
From Roseburg
Take Route 138 east to the park’s north entrance. (The park’s north entrance is typically closed for the winter season from mid-October to mid-June.)
From Bend
Take Route 97 south to Route 138 west to the park’s north entrance. (The park’s north entrance is typically closed for the winter season from mid-October to mid-June.)
From Medford
Take Route 62 north and east to the park’s west entrance.
From Klamath Falls
Take Route 97 north to Route 62 north and west to the park’s south entrance.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Crater Lake National Park
P. O. Box 7
Crater Lake, OR 97604
Phone: 541-594-2211 x402
TDD: 541-594-2261
Visitor Centers
Rim Village Visitor Center
The Rim Visitor Center is located at Rim Village, approximately 200 meters east of the Gift Shop and Cafeteria. Perched on the rim of the caldera, the center offers backcountry permits, books, maps and other educational materials. Late June through Labor Day hours are 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily. Early June and September, 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.. The cafeteria and gift shop at Rim Village are open summers from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and winters from 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.. The Mazama Village Store is open 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m..
Steel Information Center
The Steel Center at park headquarters in Munson Valley is open every day except Christmas from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. A park ranger is on duty to assist with information, weather forecasts, backcountry camping permits, ski route advisories and safety tips. A 20 minute film The Crater Lake Story describes the formation of Crater Lake through a story passed down by Native Americans of this area. It is shown throughout the day in the auditorium. For more information, the Steel Information Center may be contacted at 541-594-2211 extension 402. Books, maps, posters, postcards and educational materials are available for purchase here from the Crater Lake Natural History Association. The Steel Center has public restrooms and is fully accessible. A post office is also located in this building, open summers Monday through Friday, 10:00 a.m. 4:00 p.m.; Saturday, 10:00 a.m. 2:00 p.m.. Winter hours: 12:00 noon 2:00 p.m. daily.
Sinnott Memorial Overlook and Museum
Built in 1930 and 1931, the Sinnott Memorial Overlook is located below the caldera rim at Rim Village. A short but steep path begins near the Rim Visitor Center. The Overlook and its accompanying museum are available to visitors as staff is available. Exhibits focus on the history of research on the lake and the geologic history of historic Mt. Mazama. Ranger talks relating the formation of Crater Lake are given from the Overlook daily at 11:00 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 2:00 p.m. and 3:30 p.m. from June 26 through September 5.
Weather/Climate
Summer weather is fairly predictable at Crater Lake. However, at times throughout the summer, there may be days when the lake is completely covered in clouds and fog. We realize this can make for a disappointing visit, but hope that you can appreciate the more subtle beauty presented to you on these days. May and June can vary from warm, sunny days in the 60’s to temperatures down into the 30’s with several feet of snow and poor lake visibility.
As is typical in the Pacific Northwest, July, August and September are your “best bets” for dry, warmer weather. An average daytime high temperature during these three months is in the 70’s, but can range from the 40’s through low 80’s. Temperatures cool off rapidly in the evening, with a typical nighttime low around 40, while some nights dip below freezing. Summer thunderstorms occur from June through mid-September, bringing dramatic displays of lightning and high winds. Boat tours, guided walks and evening programs may be canceled if lightning is viewed in the park. October usually presents cool but sunny days and brings the start of winter snowfall by mid-month.
Winter usually begins in early to mid October and lasts until June. November through April is assuredly snowy with poor visibility, fair to poor driving conditions, but wonderful skiing/snowshoeing opportunities. Temperatures during the winter months range from an average high of 43F to an average low of 19F.
