Rising from the desert, the mountains of Guadalupe Mountains National Park contains portions of the world’s most extensive and significant Permian limestone fossil reef. Also featured are a tremendous earth fault, lofty peaks, unusual flora and fauna and a colorful record of the past. Guadalupe Peak (el. 8,749 feet) a massive limestone formation is the, highest point in Texas; El Capitan, a massive limestone formation; McKittrick Canyon, with its unique flora and fauna; and the “Bowl”, located in a high country conifer forest, are significant park features.
El Capitan
Guadalupe Mountains National Park could easily be described as one of America’s best-kept secrets. As if “hidden in plain view”, travelers often overlook the park as they drive by. To many, the massive rock face of El Capitan isn’t impressive, but forbidding, as it stands steadfast in a sea of harsh, barren desert. What else could possibly be here Or live here
It is easy to mistake the desert’s magic for emptiness and towering rocks and jagged peaks as treacherous, not worthy of further exploration. But beyond one’s first glimpse is an important geological story captured in the rocks and fossils. Guadalupe Mountains National Park preserves one of the finest examples of an ancient, marine fossil reef on earth. During the Permian Age, about 250 million years ago, a vast tropical ocean covered much of the region. Within this sea, calcareous sponges, algae and other lime-secreting marine organisms, along with lime precipitated from the seawater, build up and formed the reef that paralleled the shoreline for 400 miles. after the ocean evaporated, the reef was buried in thick blankets of sediments and mineral salts and was entombed for millions of years until uplift exposed massive portions of it. Today, geologists and scientists come from around the world to study this phenomenal natural resource.
Hikers at the Peak
Millions of years of geological transformation has formed the skeleton of the Guadalupes, while timeless persistence of powerful winds and the equally powerful forces of water has carved its intricate character. This is a rugged mountain range, with deep, sheer-sided canyons, steep slopes, high ridges and limited but dependable seeps and springs. The complexity of the geography allows unique life zones to shelter a staggering number of plants and animals. One needs only to walk a short distance into the park to recognize that the diversity is outstanding. Thousands of species, well equipped to tolerate the extremes of climate and topography, not only survive, but thrive in near perfect harmonious balance.
History & Culture
Archaeologists believe that the first humans in the Guadalupe Mountains were hunter-gatherers that arrived here between ten and twelve thousand years ago. Although very little is known about these people, we still find evidence that they were here. Projectile points, baskets, pottery, petroglyphs and pictographs have been found throughout the park. Since the arrival of the earliest inhabitants, people have continued to visit this area for over 10,000 years. They have come here for a variety of reasons. To some, the Guadalupes were a place of refuge, to others the mountain range presented an obstacle, difficult to overcome. These mountains were feared by many, while others came to appreciate their rugged beauty. Nearly all who passed through here were, in some way, touched by this majestic landscape.
For the Mescalero Apaches, the Guadalupe Mountains were a last stronghold. War with the Comanches forced a group of Apaches to retreat from the plains into these inaccessible mountains. They survived here by learning to utilize the native animals and plants. The Mescaleros, or Nde (In-deh) as they called themselves, hunted mule deer, elk and bighorn sheep, as well as harvested plants like agave, sotol and bear grass. The mescal, or agave, formed the major staple in both their diet and culture. In addition to supplying fiber for ropes, blankets and sandals, agave hearts were roasted in large cooking pits and eaten or made into cakes for later consumption. The Mescaleros were constantly on the move, ranging over vast areas and following the changing seasons. Though the Mescaleros learned to adapt to this rather harsh environment, they would not be able to adapt to the changes that the coming of civilization would soon bring.
Nature & Science
Geology
The Guadalupe Mountians are part of one of the finest examples of an ancient marine fossil reef on earth. Geologists visit from around the world to marvel at this extraordinary natural phenomenon, which formed during the Permian Age about 250 million years ago. During this time, a vast tropical ocean covered much of southeastern New Mexico and West Texas. Over millions of years, calcareous sponges, algae and other lime secreting marine organisms, along with calcium carbonate that precipitated from the water (a source of lime only recently discovered to be primary in this process) built up to form the 400 mile, horseshoe-shaped Capitan Reef. Through time the ocean floor slowly sank, while the reef continued to grow, remaining relativly near the water’s surface. A broad, shallow lagoon 20 to 50 miles wide formed behind the reef. Sediments deposited in the lagoon make up the backreef. Forereef is composed of material from the front (seaward) side of the reef that broke away from the steep slope, slipped to the bottom and collected as sediments.
Eventually the sea began to evaporate as it was cut off from the main body of the ocean. The water became saltier, killing the reef-building organisms. Debris washed in with the rivers and buried the seabed and reef thousands of feet deep in a thick blanket of sediments and mineral salts. It became entombed for millions of years. Then, some ten to twelve million years ago, uplifting occured. Wind and rain eroded away the softer overlying sediments, leaving the more resistant limestones of the reef exposed. This ancient reef complex towers above the Texas desert in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Ecology
Guadalupe Mountains rise sharply from the surrounding desert floor to form an island of outstanding diversity. Several different ecosystems are found within the park. These include the harsh Chihuahuan desert community, lush streamside woodlands of oaks and maples, rocky canyons and mountaintop forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Together, these ecosystems provide habitat for 60 species of mammals, 289 species of birds and 55 species of reptiles.
At first glance, the desert may seem barren and nearly devoid of life. A closer look however, will reveal that it actually supports an amazing diversity of wildlife. Desert animals are often difficult to view since many of them are nocturnal. Many desert animals adapt to the hot, dry environment by coming out after dark, when temperatures are much cooler and conditions are not quite so dry. Nocturnal desert animals include the kit fox, coyote, mountain lion, bobcat, badger, Texas banded gecko and about 16 species of bats. Mule deer, javelinas and black-tailed jackrabbits are seen early in the morning or late in the evening when temperatures are cooler.
Desert reptiles include the western diamondback rattlesnake, bullsnake, coachwhip snake, prairie lizard, collared lizard, crevice spiny lizard and the Chihuahuan spotted whiptail. Almost all of the lizards found in the park can be seen during the day. Scorpions and desert centipedes are nocturnal hunters that search the night for insects, spiders and small lizards. In the fall, tarantulas can often be seen looking for mates. The rest of the year, tarantulas rarely leave the shelter of their burrows.
One of the most unique and unexpected ecosystems in the Guadalupe Mountains is the riparian or streamside woodland. Riparian woodlands occur in places where there is water. Mule deer are one of the most common animals seen in the riparian areas. Nocturnal mammals such as skunks and raccoons can also be found here. Long-ear sunfish can be seen in some of the springs in the park, as well as in McKittrick Canyon. The stream through McKittrick Canyon is also home to a small population of rainbow trout. Although amphibians are rare in the desert, the Rio Grande leopard frog can occasionally be encountered near spring fed pools in McKittrick Canyon, or at Manzanita and Smith Springs.
Rocky canyons are home to ringtails, rock squirrels and a variety of reptiles including rock and black-tailed rattlesnakes, mountain patchnose snakes and tree lizards.
On the mountaintops, over 3,000 feet above the desert, one can find extensive pine forests. It is usually at least ten degrees cooler on the mountaintops than at the lower elevations. Mountaintop forests are home to animals such as elk, black bear, gray foxes, striped and hog-nosed skunks, porcupine, mule deer, mountain lions and mountain short-horned lizards.
The biological diversity within Guadalupe Mountains National Park is outstanding and includes more than 1000 species of plants. While many of these are common desert inhabitants such as ocotillo or prickly pear cactus, others are found only in the park and nowhere else in the world.
In part, the amazing diversity can be attributed to significant geographical variations in an extremely rugged landscape. Steep-walled canyons, high country ridge tops, huge expanses of open desert lowland and lush riparian oases provide opportunity for unique and contrasting life zones that span across thousands of acres with over 6000′ in elevation difference.
Plants that grow here are tough. They survive not only the components that make up the landscape, but also the extremes of temperature, aridity and relentlessly powerful winds, all common factors of the park’s desert climate. Plants have evolved elegant methods of tolerating or avoiding desert conditions. Some such as cactus have thick fleshy stems that store water and spines that not only serve as fierce armor against predators, but also help reflect the sun’s radiant heat. Many species avoid desert extremes by clinging tightly to limited but dependable seeps and shaded springs. Annual wildflowers that grow here avoid the drought altogether with a compressed complete life cycle from sprout to seed that occurs only in conjunction with summer’s monsoon rains.
Recreation
The park’s mild desert climate is suitable for a wide variety of outdoor activities throughout most of the year. Come and enjoy day hiking or walking, camping, backpacking, wildlife viewing, photography and horseback riding (bring your own stock). Some activities such as backpacking and horseback riding require a free permit that can be obtained at the Headquarters Visitor Center or at the Dog Canyon Ranger Station.
Hiking
Over 80 miles of hiking trails offer easy nature walks through desert flora; more moderate hikes follow canyons and reach riparian oases and strenuous all day hikes can take you into high country forest or to the “Top of Texas”. Each is unique the magic of Guadalupe Mountains National Park awaits you.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
HC 60 Box 400
Salt Flat, TX 79847-9400
Phone: 915-828-3251
Fax: 915-828-3269
Operating Hours & Seasons
Guadalupe Mountains National Park is open year-round. Visitor Center hours are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., slightly longer in summer. Headquarters Visitor Center is closed on Christmas Day. McKittrick Canyon is a day-use area; the gate at the highway is open from 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; open until 6 pm during daylight savings time.
Weather/Climate
Guadalupe Mountains National Park has relatively hot summers, calm, mild autumn weather and cool to cold weather in winter and early spring. Snow storms, freezing rain, or fog can occur in winter or early spring. Frequent high winds warnings are issued winter through spring. Late summer monsoons bring most of the park’s precipitation. Cool nights, even in summer.
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