Peter Lassen had been given a large tract of land east of the Sacramento River by the Mexican government. Somehow or the other, Lassen discovered a way over the mountains that came to be called “Lassen’s Cutoff” and set himself up in the business guiding settlers. But Lassen was a man who could mistake Lassen Pealaska, his key landmark, for Mt. Shasta, which is higher and further to the west. He would get lost in the wilderness, his exasperated charges trailing behind, supplies running perilously low. Legend has it that one of his parties got so fed up they forced Lassen at gunpoint to climb to the top of Lassen Peak and figure out where in creation they were.
Lassen Peak’s real moment of glory came in 1914, when it erupted, sending a cloud of gas and ash seven miles into the stratosphere. The nation watched fascinated, much as it did 65 years later when Mount St. Helens erupted in 1980. Volcanic activity is still the central interest of this park. Lassen’s geothermal areas Sulphur Works, Bumpass Hell, Little Hot Springs Valley, Boiling Springs Lake, Devils Kitchen and Terminal Geyser-display bubbling mud pots, steaming fumaroles and boiling water. While none are in the park itself, one of the benefits of all this torrid vulcan activity is nearby hotsprings beckoning to sore hikers.
Introduction
At 106,000 acres, Lassen Volcanic National Park is not a huge park and most of its hiking trails are in the day hike or overnighter range. Especially during years of heavy snowfall, Lassen’s hiking season is short. But life goes on after October, the park’s winter sports, especially cross country skiing and snowshoeing, are exceptional. The main park road offers dramatic views of the peaks and connects with other scenic roads outside the park in Lassen National Forest. Besides driving, Lassen National Forest offers wonderful opportunities for many different activities, including hiking, biking, fishing and wildlife viewing. Before European settlement, the region around Lassen Peak was the shared hunting ground of several Indian tribes.
While hunting has ceased in the park, the wildlife is still there. Birds from the three regions that meet in the Lassen area the Cascade Region, the Sierra Nevada and the Great Basin can be found in the park. And even if you can’t hunt, you can still fish.
And Lassen Peak is getting hotter. Scientists think that Lassen Peak and Mount Shasta are the most likely candidates in the Southern Cascades to join Mount St. Helens as active volcanoes.
History & Culture
In May 1914 Lassen Peak burst into eruption, beginning a 7-year cycle of sporadic volcanic outbursts. The climax of this episode took place in 1915, when the peak blew an enormous mushroom cloud some 7 miles into the stratosphere. The reawakening of this volcano, which began as a vent on a larger extinct volcano known as Tehama, profoundly altered the surrounding landscape. The area was made a national park in 1916 because of its significance as an active volcanic landscape. The park is a compact laboratory of volcanic phenomena and associated thermal features except true geyser’s. It is part of a vast geographic unit-a great lava plateau with isolated volcanic peaks-that also encompasses Lava Beds National Monument, California and Crater Lake National Park, Oregon. Before the 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens in Washington, Lassen Peak was the most recent volcanic outburst in the contiguous 48 states.
The peak is the southernmost volcano in the Cascade Range, which extends from here into Canada. The western part of the park features great lava pinnacles, huge mountains created by lava flows, jagged craters and steaming sulfur vents. It is cut by spectacular glaciated canyons and is dotted and threaded by lakes and rushing clear streams. Snowbanks persist year-round and beautiful meadows are spread with wildflowers in spring. The eastern part of the park is a vast lava plateau more than 1 mile above sea level. Here are found small cinder cones- Fairfield Pealaska, Hat Mountain and Crater Butte. Forested with pine and fir, this area is studded with small lakes, but it boasts few streams. Warner Valley, marking the southern edge of the Lassen plateau, features hot spring areas-Boiling Springs Lake, Devils Kitchen and Terminal Geyser. This forested, steep valley also has gorgeous large meadows.
The 1980 eruption of Mount Saint Helens reduced Lasson’s superlative status, but it increased the park’s significance as an over 70-year laboratory of possible recovery patterns for Mount Saint Helens. The Devastated Area evidences the combined mud flow and gas blast destruction typical of many volcanic eruptions in the Cascades. The Chaos Jumbles area looks similarly destroyed, but for a different reason. air-cushioned avalanche-one that fell so rapidly en masse that it trapped and compressed air beneath itself- crashed down the Chaos Crags about 300 years ago. The air acted as a lubricant, enabling the avalanche to rush across the valley at more than 100 miles per hour. It pushed 400 feet up the side of Table Mountain, before losing its momentum and surging back down across Manzanita Creek.
During human history, the Lassen area was a meeting point for four Native American groups: Atsugewi, Yana, Yahi and Maidu. Because of its weather and snow conditions, generally high elevation and its seasonally mobile deer populations, the Lassen area was not conducive to year-round living. These Native American groups camped here in warmer months for hunting and gathering. Basketmakers rather than potters, they left few artifacts other than stone points, knives and metals. A Yahi Indian named Ishi turned up in Oroville, Calif., in 1911. He had never mixed with whites before and his tribe was thought to be nonexistent. He lived out his days at the University of California Museum in Berkeley, where he was an invaluable ethnological source. Ishi was considered the last Stone Age survivor in the United States.
History here generally describes the period from 1840, even though Jedediah Smith passed through in 1828 on his overland trek to the west coast. California’s gold rush in 1848 brought the first settlers. Two pioneer trails, developed by William Nobles and Peter Lassen are associated with the park. In 1851, Nobles discovered an alternate route to California, passing through Lassen. Sections of the Nobles Emigrant Trail are still visible in the park. Lassen, for whom the park is named, guided settlers near here and tried to establish a city. mining, power development projects, ranching and timbering were all attempted here. The area’s early federal protection saved it from heavy logging.
Attractions
Bumpass Hell
Bumpass Hell is a region of many hot mud pots, an area of geothermal activity. A trail leads from a parking lot between the Sulfur Works and the Lassen Summit trailhead. The trail to the sulfur works is about 2 miles one-way. We recommend to spend several hours here. The trail begins fairly level and slowly climbs to a crest and then becomes somewhat steeper and drops down into a little valley where you will see the boiling mud pools, some of which are quite hot. The person for whom this area is named after lost his leg when he accidentally stepped through what seemed like solid ground into an underground boiling cauldron of sulfur, water, pyrite and mud. Once the trail reaches the fringes of this area it becomes a wood boardwalk. Stay on the boardwalk for it could be dangerous to venture out on your own near these boiling pools. In the wintertime this is a good area to stay warm. In this part of the park this is the only area where you can see the ground year round. The snow melts as soon as it touches these hot pools.
Sulpher Works
Sulpher Works is a fascinating display of steam vents, sulfur steams and mud pots. Unlike Bumpass Hell this is right next to the main road and there is a boardwalk that leads through this region. Sulfur Works and Bumpass Hell can somewhat be compared to Yellowstone National Park, but on a much much smaller scale. The one sulfur steam that you can see rising for several miles away is located right next to the south side of the road. A fence has been built around it to keep people from falling in. On a cold crisp day you can remain warm if you stand in the steam that emits from this steam bath. The only problem is the annoying sulfur smell that permeates everything.
Lassen Peak
Lassen Peak is the heart of Lassen National Park. You can see this giant peak from most parts of the park. At 10,457 feet the summit is readily accessible for most people in under a couple of hours. We recommend between 4 and 5 hours to summit and return, if you are in average shape and want to take a leisurely hike. The best time to hike this trail without having too much snow in your way is late July to early September. When you get close to the top, if it is a somewhat clear day you will be able to see Lassen’s giant sister to the north Mount Shasta.
Chaos Crags and Devastated Areas
Chaos Crags and Devastated Areas are two separate areas separated by about 15 or 20 miles but they are both similar in appearance and were created as a result of the 1915 Lassen explosion. Chaos Crags was created by an air cushion avalanche. This was created when rocks and magma mixed with snow, ice and vegetation came hurtling down the slopes at an incredible velocity, removing and killing everything in its way.
The Devastated Area was caused by magma that erupted and flowed down the slopes. Both areas are very slowly recovering and vegetation is slowly re-growing. In just the past 25 years the Devastated Area has had an explosion of new growth and new trees. The numbers of different plants species in the park is interesting. Lassen Peak sits at the end of the southern range for many Cascade plant species and at the northern range of many Sierra species. The result is that Lassen Park contains 779 plant species while its sister to the north Mount Shasta contains only 485 species.
The Lava Tube Caves
The Lava Tube Caves also known as the Subway Caves are well worth a visit. They are located just outside the northern part of the park near the junction of Highways 44 and 89. They are actually located on Highway 89 about 0.5 miles north of Highway 44. These caves formed when lava and magma cooled above the surface of the soil. These caves wind for up to 25 miles past where the main exit is located. However, approximately 1/3 a mile of these caves are open to the public. The temperature of the caves remains constant. It is a bit chilly inside the caves, especially if you are entering on a cold day. Warm clothing is recommended and a flashlight is a must. The trail leads along what is basically a large tube with side caves extending off from the main cave.
Cinder Cone
Cinder Cones is located on a section of trail that extends many miles into the backcountry of Lassen Park. The actual hike to the cinder cone is about a mile. The graded good dirt road that leads to trail takes off from Highway 44 on the northern part of Lassen Park. This road leads to Butte Lake which is shown on most maps and this may help you find the road. As you walk the trail that leads to the cinder cone you will pass tremendously large lava flows. In fact most of the trail is at the edge of these lava flows. Only after you reach the top of cinder cone will you see how extensive these flows actually are. At close up range these flows will be composed of large sharp looking black volcanic rocks. When you view these flows from afar they will look like many small black hills winding their way over the landscape. Once you get close to the cinder cone you will be struck with how stark it looks. It is composed of pure cinders and rises out of nowhere. You will be lucky if you can spot the several trees or bushes growing on its sides. Geologists have estimated that its age to be only 300 to 400 years old.
Recreation
Camping
There are eight campgrounds in the park. Groups must camp in one of two group campgrounds (Lost Creek or Juniper Lake). Reservations for the group campgrounds are required and must be made in advance. Contact 530-595-4444 ext. 5155 for information on group camping. All other park campgrounds operate on a first come, first served basis; no reservations can be made. All campgrounds are above 5,650 feet; persons with problems aggravated by high elevation should consult their physician.
Hiking
The park’s 150 miles of trails include a 17 mile section of the Pacific Crest Trail. Do pick up a copy of the Lassen Trails booklet which gives nifty descriptions and maps of the park’s trails. You’ll find it for sale at the park offices as well in stores in the nearby communities.
Besides the Pacific Crest Trail, we recommend the Bumpass Hell Trail, a three mile (round trip) trail to the largest thermal area in the park. The trail is also one of the most scenic.
The Lassen Peak Trail is an approachable summit that takes an average of four hours up and back. Most moderately in-shape hikers will have no problem completing the hike in good weather.
The Cinder Cone Trail is another fascinating trail. The ground is loose and somewhat hard-going, but you’re treated to peculiar landscape along the way and a great view of the surrounding peaks when you reach the top.
Winter Sports
From snowshoeing to sledding, the Lassen Chalet area (elevation 6700 feet) at the southwest end of the park is a winter “hot spot.”
The Lassen Park Road is closed by snow in the winter, but is plowed one mile past the south entrance to the Chalet. There are guided snowshoe walks for those who want to try snowshoeing and learn about the park’s natural. history. The walks begin at the Chalet. Many intermediate and advanced cross-country skiers and snowshoers are drawn to the steep terrain and sweeping views from the snow-covered park road. The road leaves from the Chalet and leads to breathtaking beauty.
There is also a snow play area near the Lassen Chalet where tobogganing, sledding, tubing and snowboarding are allowed. For those wanting to camp in the snow, the Southwest Walk-In Campground near the Chalet is open year-round. Water and restroom facilities are nearby.
The Manzanita Lake area (elevation 6000 feet) is a great place to visit at the north end of the park. Those new to cross-country skiing or snowshoeing might try circling Manzanita Lake (approximately 1.5 miles round trip). The area is relatively flat and there may be a few marked trails in the area. Photographers will enjoy taking pictures of Manzanita Lake with Lassen Peak towering in the background.
More advanced skiers might ascend into the higher elevations above Manzanita Creek. The road is plowed from the north entrance to the Loomis Ranger Station. During a storm it may be plowed as far as the lower parking area (just east of the Highway 44/89 intersection). A cross-country ski or snowshoe trip to Butte Lake (elevation 6100 feet) offers dramatic scenery. There is a sharp contrast between the black Fantastic Lava Beds and the white snow. The four mile round-trip excursion from Butte Lake to the Cinder Cone is also enjoyable. The six-mile gravel road from Highway 44 is not plowed in the winter and parking may be difficult as there are no designated parking areas.
More ambitious visitors may want to explore the Juniper Lake and Warner Valley areas (elevation 5700 and 6800 feet). Relatively few people visit either location once the snow falls because of its limited access. These areas can be reached from the town of Chester, but a great distance may need to be traveled on skis or snowshoes to reach them as both roads are closed by snow in winter.
In The Area
Whiskeytown Shasta Trinity National Recreation Area
The Whiskeytown Shasta Trinity National Recreation Area, with its mountainous back country and man-made large reservoir offers many summer activities such as hiking and boating as well as the historical remains of buildings built during the California Gold Rush of 1849. Whiskeytown Lake, with 36 miles of shoreline and covering 3200 acres, is excellent for most water-related activities, including swimming, scuba diving, water skiing, boating and fishing. The lake was created by diverting water through tunnels and penstocks, from the Trinity River Basin to the Sacramento River Basin.
Lava Beds National Monument
Volcanic eruptions on the Medicine Lake shield volcano have created an incredibly rugged landscape punctuated by cinder cones, lava flows, spatter cones, lava tube caves and pit craters. During the Modoc War of 1872-1873, the Modoc Indians used these tortuous lava flows to their advantage.
Under the leadership of Captain Jack, the Modocs took refuge in “Captain Jack’s Stronghold,” a natural lava fortress. From this base a group of 53 fighting men and their families held off US Army forces numbering up to twenty times their strength for five months. Visitors can tour both the geologic and historic wonders of this unusual landscape.
When To Go
The Lassen massif receives huge amounts of snow and travel to all areas of the park is usually not possible until mid-July. A very enjoyable time to visit the park is during the two months following Labor Day, when the crowds and mosquitoes have vanished. Many feel that winter is the best time to visit Lassen Volcanic National Park. There is a quiet beauty in its white, winter landscape. Visitors can participate in a variety of activities and adventures months after the heat and summer crowds are gone. During the winter which usually begins in mid-November cross-country skiing possibilities abound. The road is plowed to the South Entrance Station and from there you can take off in myriad directions into the backcountry. Bumpass Hell in winter is a marvelous sight.
Getting There
The best access to the park is by private automobile. Auto rental services are available in Redding, Red Bluff, Chico, Susanville or Reno. Greyhound and Trailways bus lines serve cities within 60 miles of the park. AMTRAK serves Redding and Chico.
Major airlines serve Redding, Sacramento, Chico and Reno. Private planes may land at Chester, Redding and Red Bluff. Redding and Red Bluff offer car rentals. Buses serve Mineral from Red Bluff and Susanville.
There are three access roads into other areas of the park: Butte Lake Road (six miles-gravel), Juniper Lake Road (13 miles-gravel) and the Warner Valley Road (14 miles of paved road, then three miles of gravel). The Warner Valley and Butte Lake roads are usually open June through late October. The Juniper Lake road is usually open early July to late October.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Lassen Volcanic National Park
P. O. Box 100
Mineral, CA 96063-0100
Phone: 530-595-4444
Permits
A wilderness permit is required for any overnight backcountry stay. Permits are issued for one trip at a time at park headquarters or contact stations. They can be requested two weeks before your trip by writing or calling the superintendent. Ask about closed areas.
Fires
Only self-contained stoves are permitted. No wood fires allowed at Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Health
Lassen Volcanic National Park’s high elevations may leave you short of breath. Take time to get acclimatized. Avoid exposed terrain during lightning storms. Tell a ranger your trip plans and expected return. Overnight backcountry use requires a wilderness permit.
