Mount Rainier National Park is a wonderland famous for dense forests, dazzling wildflower meadows, tremendous snowfields and rugged glaciers. Mount Rainier National Park is the 5th oldest national park in the nation and celebrated its 100th year in 1999. The Mount Rainer area is rich in culture, history, geology and, of course, outdoor activities. Around Rainer, you can find a number of National Parks and Forests. The glorious peak of Mt. Rainer may draw some, while the crater of Mt. Saint Helens may tempt others. Both of these peaks have endlessly provided a challenge for those looking to push personal limits and scale heights. Not only are these areas great for the mountaineer, but also for the biker, hiker, skier and boater.
Mount Rainer as seen from across the river
Beyond the borders of these parks, the wilderness continues. Gifford Pinchot and Wenatchee National Forest may not have the sublime peaks of Saint Helens and Rainier, but the forests are not dissimilar and activities abound. Seattle is in the center of all of this. There you’ll find everything you can imagine. During the day you can hunt down that one last pair of wool socks for your trek and at night you can enjoy one of the many outstanding restaurants.
Hiking the Wonderland Trail is the most popular way of enjoying the park. At the turn of the century, the Wonderland Trail was established and used as an attraction to promote park visitation. Later, rangers used the trail as a patrol beat. Original ranger cabins are still in use. The oldest of these is at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, constructed in 1915. The trail passes through major temperate zones of the park, from lowland forests to subalpine meadows of wildflowers. Meandering past some swift rivers, Wonderland leads to some majestic views of Mt. Rainier. As the trail circles the mountain, hikers witness the varied, glacier carved faces of Mt. Rainier.
Mount Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres, ranging in elevation from 1,610′ to 14,410′ above sea level. The mountain is actually an active volcano encased in over 35 square miles of snow and ice, surrounded by old growth forest and wildflower meadows. The park is rich in cultural resources and has been designated a National Historic Landmark District as an outstanding example of early park planning and NPS rustic architecture.
Narada Falls, Mt Rainier Area
History & Culture
Northwest American Indians knew the mountain long before European explorers reached the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Local people called the mountain Takhoma, Tahoma, Ta-co-bet (meaning “big mountain” or “snowy peak”). American Indians living both east and west of Mount Rainier traveled to the high mountain valleys each summer and fall to gather berries and hunt deer, goats, elk and bear, often camping at altitudes between 3,000 feet and 5,000 feet. The forests and meadows around Mount Rainier were important summer hunting and gathering sites for the Nisqually, Puyallup, Upper Cowlitz, Muckleshoot and Yakama people. In 1792, Captain George Vancouver of the British Royal Navy anchored his ship near today’s Port Townsend, Washington. He named the mountain after his friend and colleaque Rear Admiral Peter Rainier. In 1833, Dr. William Fraser Tolmie of the Hudson Bay Company became the first European who traveled into what is now known as Mount Rainier National Park. Since then, numerous historical feats have taken place within Mount Rainier National Park. For instance, in August 1870, Yakama guide Sluiskin led Hazard Stevens and Philemon Beecher Van Trump to the southern slopes of Mount Rainier. although Sluiskin refused to accompany them, Stevens and Van Trump climbed to the summit. They were the first people known to reach the top of Mount Rainier.
In 1890, Fay Fuller, a schoolteacher from Yelm, Washington, became the first woman to climb to the top of the mountain. Susan Longmire who in 1891 climbed to the summit at age 13 followed Fuller’s feat. Today about 10,000 men and women attempt to climb to the summit of Mount Rainier each year. About half are successful; many of those who do not reach the summit are forced to leave higher elevations because of inclement weather and strong winds.
Nature & Science
Mount Rainier is a complex landscape, but its origins are simple: fire and ice. The mountain is a volcano built up above the surrounding country by repeated eruptions and successive flows of lava. It is a relatively young volcano (only about one million years old). In contrast, most of the mountains in the Cascades are at least 12 million years old and were created by the folding, buckling and uplifting of the Earth’s surface. Mount Rainier is not an isolated volcano. From Lassen Peak in California to Mount Garibaldi in British Columbia, an entire line of volcanoes defines the north-south march of the Cascades. These peaks dominate the skyline, but lie dormant and may erupt at anytime (like Lassen Peak in 1914-21 and Mount Saint Helens in 1980). One of the unexpected side benefits of eruptions like Lassen Peak and Mount Saint Helens is the nutrient-rich deposition of ash and pumice layers, supporting an abundance of wild flowers throughout the mountainous Pacific Northwest.
Even as volcanic forces were building up this land, the slow, inevitable power of glacial ice began to shape and form it. Glaciers form from the snow that does not melt from year to year, slowly accumulating to great depths. The weight of the snow presses the air out, packs it down tight and compresses it into ice. Gravity pulls the ice down the mountainside, both scouring and smoothing the bedrock as it goes. Freezing and thawing breaks rocks from the adjacent slopes and they fall onto the glacier’s surface. Sometimes they are left behind as the glacier retreats, no longer able to bear the load of rock and sediment. This is an inexorable process that continues today and will forever alter the mountain. Over millions of years the ebb and flow of glaciers will eventually flatten the grand mountain visible today.
The Alpine lakes bring in incredible wildlife, such as this moose
Mount Rainier has more glaciers than any peak in the lower 48 states. Five, the Nisqually, Ingraham, Emmons, Winthrop and Tahoma, originate at the top, while others, born of snow in immense cirques, merge impressively into the glistening armor of the great volcano. Most notable are the Cowlitz, Fryingpan, Carbon, Russel, North and South Mowich and Puyallup. The main glaciers are from 4 to 6 miles in length. Mount Rainier’s glacial mantle totals more than 40 square miles. Glaciers are replenished every winter by vast quantities of snow, but lose more substance, comparatively, by melting in their lower courses. Nisqually, measured since 1918, moves a daily maximum average of 16 inches, but melts back, on the average, 70 feet per year.
Recreation
Mountain Biking
Mountain bikers have 3 areas to choose from in the park. The first is the Westside Road, just inside the Nisqually Entrance in the southwest corner of the park. The entire length is unpaved and provides an exceptionally scenic challenge. The first 3 miles of the road are open to all vehicles. There is a small parking area at the end of this 3 mile section and many mountain bikers choose to leave their cars at this point. The 10 mile stretch to Klapatche Point is restricted to cyclists and hikers. The second option is the Carbon River Road in the northwest corner of the park, which provides an opportunity to ride through a rain forest.
Another option for mountain bikers is the road behind the old campground in Longmire. Vehicle parking and access to this road are at the Community Building in Longmire. This road accesses Forest Service Road 52 and makes a loop back to the park via Ashford.
Camping
Use limits exist and are enforced throughout virtually all of Mount Rainier wilderness (97% of the park) from June 1 through September 30 only. A 14 day limitation applies to all camping in July and August.
Many backpackers venture into rough trailless areas, far away from maintained trails and choose their own location to camp. Be sure to follow “leave no trace” camping ethics. These vast areas are segmented into zones for management purposes and each zone has a capacity for numbers of allowable parties per night camped in that zone. Party size may not exceed 5. Choose crosscountry camping only if you are adept with map and compass and in excellent physical condition for enduring the additional challenge of crosscountry travel.
Night time on the mountain
Mountain climbers generally camp in treeless, snow and ice-covered areas on the slopes of Mount Rainier. Like crosscountry areas, the alpine areas are also segmented into zones, most of which have limitations on number of groups per night. Party size may not exceed 12, unless camping where small party sites already exist, in which case party size may not exceed 5. Within the alpine zones, there are two popular elevated camps on the two most popular climbing routes (Muir Corridor and Emmons Glacier).
Each camp and the adjoining alpine zones have capacities based on allowable people per night. Climbers may camp wherever they wish in the alpine zone as long as they stay on snow. Never camp on exposed vegetation or the partially vegetated “islands” of rare alpine plants as these plants struggle to survive here. In particular, camping is illegal in the Muir “fellfields” on either side of the Muir Snowfield, which leads to Camp Muir. Clearing new tent sites on rocky or snow free areas is prohibited.
Snow Camping is allowed almost anywhere in the park once enough snow has accumulated to protect vegetation. This means when snow has reached a depth of five feet at Paradise and two feet elsewhere in the park. When snow camping, choose your own campsite which must be a minimum of 200 feet from plowed roads and parking areas (to avoid being buried by snowblowers) and at least 100 feet from water. Groups may be of any size, more than 12 people are directed to snow camp only at Paradise. Groups must camp 300 feet to 600 feet from restrooms and are required to use restrooms to dispose of human wastes. Reservations for camping are neither required nor accepted.
Climbing
Climbers must register to go above 10,000 feet or to travel onto glaciers. Primary registration locations are the Paradise Ranger Station, White River Wilderness Information Center and the Wilkeson Ranger Station. The climbing fee is $15 per person per summit attempt or glacier trek, or $25 per person per year. The fee is payable when registering. Climbing fees help recover costs for climber safety and education, upper mountain human waste management and program administration.
Reservations are available for all climbing high camps at a cost of $20. This fee is in addition to the climbing permit fee and does not guarantee a spot in the public shelter at Camp Muir. Call 360-569-HIKE to make reservations (April 1 September 30 only).
Hiking
Mount Rainier National Park offers over 240 miles of maintained trails for your enjoyment. Trails lead through the peacefulness of the old-growth forests in the river valleys and the high subalpine meadows of the ridges. From the trails you can explore the forests, lakes and streams and view the fields of wildflowers and network of glaciers. The Wonderland Trail is a 96 mile wonder that circles the mountain.
One of the many hiking trails lacing Mt Rainier Park
Mountaineering
Mount Rainier, the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48 states, offers an exciting challenge. This 14,410 foot active volcano has been successfully climbed by thousands of people. Reaching the summit involves a vertical elevation gain of more than 9,000 feet over a distance of more than 8 miles.
Weather, snow and route conditions can change rapidly and can make the difference between a pleasant, rewarding experience and a tragedy. Obtain a current weather forecast before beginning a climb. Turn back if weather conditions deteriorate. Severe winter-like storms on the mountain are not uncommon during the summer.
Contact a climbing ranger for updated information on weather, route conditions, crevasses, rockfall and avalanches by calling 360-569-2211, extension 2314
Paddling
A variety of rivers and creeks await kayakers and rafters in and around Mt. Rainier. Difficult to moderate runs are easily accessible. Commercial rafting is available, however private boaters prevail in this area, especially in the park itself.
Crosscountry Skiing/Snowshoeing
When there is sufficient snow, Park Rangers mark some trails for skiing and snowshoeing. You will find a good selection of novice, intermediate and advanced routes ranging from .75 9 miles. Contact a Ranger station or Visitor Center for trail openings. Skiing in snowplay areas or on plowed roads is not allowed. Skiing on plowed roadways is both unsafe and illegal. Whether skiing or walking, stay off plowed roads.
Check the Mountain Weather and Avalanche Forecast web site before starting your trip. Knowledge of the local avalanche danger is extremely important. Backcountry permits are required year-round and during the winter are available at the Longmire Museum at Longmire and the Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise. A Wilderness Permit is necessary if camping overnight
Alpine Skiing and Snowboarding
Though there is no official alpine skiing here, there is plenty of room for snowboarding. In the past, meadow damage caused by snowboarders when little snow cover was in the meadows resulted in the temporary closure of the entire park to snowboarding until approximately three feet of snow was on the ground. Please help rangers avoid having to do this again. To limit unnecessary closures, snowboard only on the Muir Snowfield when there is insufficient snow elsewhere.
Backcountry Skiing/Snowboarding
Mt. Rainier has a lot of easily accessible ski touring. For a nice trip, you can start at the Paradise Visitor Center. Ski tour along the whole side of the ridge that goes up to Camp Muir and ski down to Reflection Lakes.
Getting There
By Car
Year-round access to Mount Rainier National Park is via SR 706 to the Nisqually Entrance in the southwest corner of the park. Limited winter access is available via Highway 123 in the southeast corner of the park. The Carbon River/Mowich Lake area (northeast corner) is accessed via SR 165 through Wilkeson. Summer access is available via Highway 410 on the north and east sides of the park.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Mount Rainier National Park
Tahoma Woods, Star Route
Ashford, WA 98304-9751
Phone: 360-569-2211
Visitor Centers
Longmire Wilderness Information Center
Phone: 360-569-HIKE (4453) Open May 28 through June 30 Sunday through Thursday: 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. July 1 through Sept. 30 Sunday through Thursday: 7:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Backpacking permits available.
Jackson Visitor Center – Paradise
Information, exhibits, films, book sales and showers are among the facilities available. Phone: 360-569-2211 ext. 2328. Open: 10:00 a.m. 5:00 p.m. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays only.
Paradise Ranger Station
Phone: 360-569-2211 ext. 2314 May 6 to June 18 Thursdays through Mondays: 8:00 a.m. 12:00 p.m. Closed May 23-27 and during rescues. June 19 through the summer: Open daily 7:00 a.m. 4:30 p.m. Climbing permits are available.
Ohanapecosh Visitor Center
May 28 to June 6 Friday through Sunday & Memorial Day: 9:00 a.m. 5:00 p.m. June 11 to June 24 Monday through Thursday: 9:00 a.m. 5:00 p.m. Friday through Saturday: 9:00 a.m. 6:00 p.m. June 25 to September 6 Daily: 9:00 a.m. 6:00 p.m..
White River Wilderness Information Center
Phone: 360-663-2273 June to September Sunday through Thursday: 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. October 1 -12 Daily: 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Backpacking and eastside climbing permits are available here.
Sunrise Visitor Center
Open daily July 2 to September 6 from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m..
Wilkeson Ranger Station
Mid-June: Monday through Thursday: 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Friday: 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Saturday: 7:00 a.m. to :00 7:00 p.m. Sunday: 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Backpacking and north side climbing permits available. A self-permitting station is available at the caboose.
Avalanches
Familiarize yourself with the daily avalanche forecasts for the Paradise area. When selecting a travel route, consider the terrain and weather factors that may cause avalanches. As a note, the safest routes are on ridge tops and slightly on the windward side of ridgelines, away from cornices. If you can’t travel on ridges, the next safest routes are out in the valleys, far from the bottom of slopes. For further information, refer to the climbing section of the Mount Rainier National Park website.
Volcanic Activity Information
Although no recent eruptions have occurred, Mt. Rainier is more active than previously thought. Should you choose to visit Longmire Historical District, Cougar Rock, Ohanapecosh, Sunshine Point, Ipsut Creek or White River Campground, bear in mind that these areas are more vulnerable to geologic hazards than others within the park. Furthermore, park employees and visitors may have insufficient time to safely evacuate should an event occur.
Although Longmire and the Frontcountry campgrounds will be open for use according to the posted spring opening schedule, individuals must decide if they will assume the personal risk of spending time in these potentially dangerous locations. If you choose to stay in any of these locations, be sure to review posted geologic hazard, evacuation and escape information.
Weather/Climate
Weather patterns at Mount Rainier are strongly influenced by the Pacific Ocean, elevation and latitude. The climate is generally cool and rainy, with summer highs in the 60′s and 70′s. While July and August are the sunniest months of the year, rain is possible any day and very likely in spring, fall and winter.
As one of the snowiest places on Earth, Paradise is worthy of a winter visit. From November to late May, expect to find 10 to 20 feet of snow on the ground. Approximately 630 inches of snow falls in an average winter, at Paradise in the winter of 1971-72 a then world’s record was established with 1122 inches of snow!
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