Point Reyes National Seashore was established to preserve and protect wilderness, natural ecosystems and cultural resources along the diminishing undeveloped coastline of the western United States. As wildland habitat is lost elsewhere in California, the relevance of the Point Reyes Peninsula increases as a protected area with a notable rich biological diversity. Located just an hour’s drive from a densely populated metropolitan area, the Seashore is a sanctuary for myriad plant and animal species and for the human spirit for discovery, inspiration, solitude and recreation and exists as a reminder of the human connection to the land. When you take time to explore Point Reyes National Seashore, you’ll find wildlife abounds. The Seashore is home to nearly forty species of land mammals, and at least a dozen species of marine mammals. Nearly half the bird species of North America have been spotted here.
The Point Reyes National Seashore was established by President John F. Kennedy on September 13, 1962.
Whether you are a frequent visitor to Point Reyes or planning your first visit to the park, we are sure you will find plenty to enjoy.
Introduction
Point Reyes National Seashore comprises over 100 square miles, including 32,000 acres of coastal wilderness area. Estuaries, windswept beaches, coastal scrub grasslands, salt and freshwater marshes and coniferous forests create a haven of 80 miles of unspoiled and undeveloped coastline. Point Reyes National Seashore has abundant recreational opportunities including 147 miles of hiking trails, backcountry campgrounds and numerous beaches. Kayaking, biking, hiking, beachcombing and wildlife viewing are just a few of the self-guided activities awaiting your visit. Guided activities are also offered in the Seashore. Explore geology, Coast Miwok culture, lighthouse history and other topics with a Park Ranger. Programs are offered on weekends and are free to the public.
Point Reyes Field Seminars, offered by the Point Reyes National Seashore Association, provides high quality educational experiences that increase people’s respect and reverence for the natural world, as well as increasing their understanding and appreciation of the significance of Point Reyes National Seashore.
The Miwok Archeological Preserve of Marin (MAPOM) provides adult classes in California Indian skills. Learn flintknapping, arrowmaking, basketry, hide tanning and other native skills with experienced instructors.
Located just an hour’s drive from the San Francisco Bay area, Point Reyes National Seashore is a great escape from a busy city life.
History & Culture
The cultural history of Point Reyes reaches back some 5,000 years to the Coast Miwok Indians who were the first human inhabitants of the Peninsula. Over 120 known village sites exist within the park. According to many experts, Sir Francis Drake landed here in 1579, the first European to do so. In response to the many shipwrecks in the treacherous coastal waters, key lighthouse and lifesaving stations were established by the United States Government in the late 180 and early 190. In the early 180, Mexican land grantees established ranchos.
They were followed by a wave of American agricultural operations, which continue to this day in the Seashore’s pastoral zone. The sea is the soul of Point Reyes. It not only affects the climate and the species found here, but it is the key influence on the human history of the area. The Coast Miwok have depended on this coastline for food and materials for thousands of years; Spanish explorers and merchants, returning with spice and silk from the Asia, navigated by these cliffs and shores; and gold miners, dairy farmers, and lumbermen counted on the ships that sailed these waters for transporting their goods to and from market. Point Reyes maritime history is a microcosm of Californias history.
Today, Point Reyes National Seashore helps preserve the maritime history of California. Among the dozens of shipwrecks that were lost in the waters off Point Reyes, lie the remains of the San Agustin. Wrecked in Drakes Bay in 1595, it is the first shipwreck in California history. The San Agustin was only the first of a long line of tragedies. While Point Reyes provided a landmark, it also posed a hazard to generations of sailors who navigated these waters.
In an attempt to reduce the number of wrecks and to provide aid in navigation along these rocky shores, the U. S. Lighthouse Service built the Point Reyes Light Station in 1870. For 105 years, it provided mariners with guidance and aid. Despite the efforts of the men and women who worked at the lighthouse, ships continued to wreck on the rocks and beaches. In 1889, the Life Saving Service opened the first of two Life Saving Stations built at Point Reyes. The men stationed there attempted the rescue of victims of storm and wreck.
As technology improved, other means of protecting navigation and communication with ships at sea appeared. Beginning in 1913, Guglielmo Marconi, a pioneer of wireless radio, built radio stations in the area. Ultimately, transmitting and receiving stations in Bolinas, on Tomales Bay, and near the Great Beach reached out across the Pacific to provide communications to ships at sea. Station KPH, the maritime radio station owned by Marconi and later, the Radio Corporation of America (RCA), signed off in 1997 and brought to a close an important chapter in Point Reyes history.
Whether in climbing down the stairs to the Lighthouse or walking out to the Lifeboat Station, todays visitor can gain a better appreciation for the impact the sea has played on the history of California and in particular, on Point Reyes.
Nature & Science
Geology
The Point Reyes Peninsula has long baffled geologists. Why should the granite bedrock of this craggy coast match the bedrock in the southern Sierra Nevada range more than 310 miles to the south The answer lies in plate tectonics and the continual movement of the earth’s crust. Geologically, Point Reyes is a land in motion. The Point Reyes National Seashore rides high on the eastern edge of the Pacific plate, which creeps northwestward about two inches a year. The slower moving North American plate travels westward. In Olema Valley, near Bear Valley Visitor Center, the North American and Pacific plates grind together along the San Andreas Fault Zone. This fault zone contains many large and small faults running parallel and at odd angles to one another. Because neither plate can move freely, tremendous pressures build up. From time to time this pressure becomes too great and the surface actually moves. This is what happened in the earthquake of 1906 when the Peninsula leaped 20 feet northwestward.
Ecology
As wildland habitat is lost elsewhere in California, the relevance of the Point Reyes National Seashore increases as a protected area with a notable rich biological diversity. Over 45% of North American avian species and nearly 18% of California’s plant species are found in the park due to the variety habitat and uniqueness of the geology. Twenty-three threatened and endangered species exist within the Seashore.
Even if you can only visit here for a day, you will begin to see what we have at Point Reyes National Seashore and how it works. As you drive through windswept Bishop pines, hike up Mt. Wittenberg under towering Douglas firs or walk along Bear Valley Trail through mixed woodlands to the exposed coastal scrub near the ocean, you will begin to see patterns. You might ask yourself why certain plants grow in certain places.
Their placement began with ancient geologic forces that created the bedrock and soils. Particular characteristics in these soils determine which types of plants can survive in different locations. Hills, valleys and exposure provide further discrimination for plants depending on their sunlight needs and tolerance to winds. Nothing is random in what you are observing plants grow where they can survive forming the foundations of all other life including our own.
Wildlife abounds throughout the Point Reyes National Seashore. Along the coast you may find marine mammals such as whales, seals and sea lions. A closer look reveals an abundance of bird life feeding near the tideline. Back in the forest, you may glimpse a bobcat, coyote, raccoon, or skunk scurrying off.
Recreation
Trails at Point Reyes National Seashore are used by hikers, mountain bikers and horseback riders. Leisurely drives throughout the seashore to beaches and wildlife areas; such as the tule elk range or historic lighthouse. Picnicking at beaches and trailheads is also recommended. NOTE: Some restrictions apply to trail usage by bikers and horses, so please pick up free park maps with specific trails marked. Birdwatching is exceptional, especially during fall and spring migrations. The park beaches are also excellent places to view the annual gray whale migration, January through April.Hiking
The National Seashore has over 140 miles of hiking trails to explore. Trail maps are available at the Bear Valley Visitor Center. There are many ways to customize your hike to accommodate your physical and time limitations.
Biking
Point Reyes National Seashore provides a variety of off-road biking opportunities traversing diverse habitats and terrains. You can explore trails through evergreen forests, coastal scrub, or along estuaries and beach bluffs.
Visitor Centers offer a free map of the park’s trails, indicating which trails are designated for bike travel. Point Reyes permits biking only outside of wilderness areas along emergency access/dirt fire roads, paved roads and a few single-track trails.
Horseback riders have first priority on the trails with hikers coming second. Bicyclists must yield to both of these trail user groups. Be aware that many horses are easily spooked when approached from behind. Reduce your speed when approaching horses or hikers. Stop on the downhill side of the trail while horses pass. The speed limit on all trails, even when headed downhill, is 15 mph. Be courteous. If trails are dry and dusty, slow down even more so as not to leave hikers in a cloud of dust.
Getting There
Point Reyes National Seashore is located approximately 35 miles north of San Francisco on Highway 1 along the west coast of California.
From San Francisco
Travelers may approach Point Reyes National Seashore from the winding scenic Highway 1, either northbound or southbound. You can also reach the park via Sir Francis Drake Boulevard or Point Reyes/Petaluma Road.
Weather
Weather at Point Reyes National Seashorevaries not only day to day but also from hour to hour. From February through May, mild weather carpets the land with a host of brilliantly colored wildflowers. Summer is the time when fog can blanket the coastal areas while the inland valleys remain warm. The coastal climate is generally moist and mild featuring wet winters and warm summers with frequent fog or wind from the ocean. Mean annual precipitation on the peninsula is 36 inches in inland areas and 12 inches at the headlands. There are constant winds of moderate to strong velocity on the exposed headlands and outer beaches. The greatest wind occurs in November and December. Winds have been clocked up to 130 miles per hour at the Coast Guard Station on the Point, but the annual maximum wind velocity is 43 miles per hour. Winds are much lighter on the eastern side of the Inverness Ridge, but it is an unusual day that does not bring some afternoon breezes to Point Reyes.
Point Reyes National Seashore’s headlands and beaches on the Pacific Coast are subject to frequent heavy fogs. During most of the year, the water temperatures near the coast are lower than that of the ocean farther to the west. The cooling effect of these frigid coastal waters on the warmer moist air moving east produces fog. The fog often blankets the ocean for more than 50 miles off the shore and often smothers the beaches. Such heavy fogs are most common in the months of July, August and September.
Sunshine and higher temperatures occur on the inland portions of Point Reyes National Seashore. The east side of Inverness Ridge and the beaches of Tomales Bay are sheltered, leaving sunny areas for picnicking and swimming. Inland temperatures in the summer are often 20 degrees warmer than temperatures on the Headlands and outer coast.
Dress in layers while visiting the Point Reyes National Seashore since you may begin a hike in 75 degree sunshine and finish it along the coast where cooler temperatures (50-60 degrees) and ocean breezes can change quickly.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Point Reyes National Seashore
Point Reyes, CA 94956
Phone: 415-464-5100
Fax: 415-663-8132
Operating Hours & Seasons
Point Reyes National Seashore is open daily (with overnight camping available by permit only) from sunrise to sunset throughout the year. Visitor center hours are as follows: Bear Valley Visitor Center, weekdays, 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., weekends and holidays 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; Lighthouse Visitor Center, Thursday through Monday, 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Lighthouse stairs and exhibits (weather permitting), 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Lens Room open as weather & staffing permit, all Lighthouse facilities closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays; Ken Patrick Visitor Center, weekends and holidays, 10:00 a.m.. to 5:00 p.m. All visitor centers are closed December 25.
