The colorful North Dakota badlands provides the scenic backdrop to the Theodore Roosevelt National Park which memorializes the 26th president for his enduring contributions to the conservation of our nation’s resources. The Theodore Roosevelt National Park is also the largest and most popular recreation area in North Dakota. Capturing the essence of the Wild West with its windswept plains and towering bluffs. Bluffs which silhouette the landscape with their shadows as the sun crosses the horizon. Only broken by meandering streams that have created a maze of valleys. Water which continually changes the face of North Dakota’s soft sandstone. The park contains 70,448 acres divided among three units: South Unit, North Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit. In the park you will find badlands, open prairie, hard wood draws, bison, prairie dogs and other wildlife, the Little Missouri River and a past history that includes Theodore Roosevelt.
On November 10, 1978, Theodore Roosevelt National Park was given national park status when President Carter signed a law changing the memorial park to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This same law placed 29,920 acres of the park under the National Wilderness Preservation System.
Introduction
Theodore Roosevelt once remarked, “I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota.”Roosevelt first came to the badlands in September 1883 on a hunting trip. While here he became interested in the cattle business and invested in the Maltese Cross Ranch. He returned the next year and established the Elkhorn Ranch.
Whenever he managed to spend time in the badlands, he became more and more alarmed by the damage that was being done to the land and its wildlife. He witnessed the virtual destruction of some big game species, such as bison and bighorn sheep. Overgrazing destroyed the grasslands and with them the habitats for small mammals and songbirds.
Conservation increasingly became one of Roosevelt’s major concerns. During his Presidency, Roosevelt established the US Forest Service and signed the 1906 Antiquities Act under which he proclaimed 18 national monuments. He also established 5 national parks, 51 wildlife refuges and 150 national forests.
Here in the North Dakota badlands, where many of his personal concerns first gave rise to his later environmental efforts, Roosevelt is remembered with a national park that bears his name and honors the memory of this great conservationist.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is in the colorful North Dakota badlands and is home to a variety of plants and animals, including bison, prairie dogs and elk.
History & Culture
Within a short time after the death of Theodore Roosevelt on January 6, 1919, there were proposals to establish a memorial in his honor. Various studies took place across the country that included ideas for national parks, monuments, wildlife refuges and scenic roads as well as state parks. Sylvane Ferris, a friend and business associate of TR during his cattle ranching days in the Dakota Badlands, appointed a committee to pick a site; Medora was selected. The 1921 North Dakota legislature instructed their representatives in Congress to assist by setting land aside for a park. The Little Missouri Badlands were explored in 1924 by a party of 40 to outline an area for a Roosevelt National Park. This tour resulted in the formation of the Roosevelt Memorial National Park Association (later, the Great North Dakota Association). The following year, a tour of “cowboys and Congressmen”, a larger group of federal, state and regional officials plus interested parties and news media conducted an inspection camping trip through the “Grand Canyon of the Little Missouri” which cemented the park idea. One early plan called for a 2030-square-mile park. But this proposal was not without its critics because it included too much good stock land for the liking of local ranchers.
Roger Toll, Superintendent of Rocky Mountain National Park, submitted a report on the proposed park to National Park Service Director Stephen T. Mather in 1928 in which he favored the establishment of a small national monument stating, “A national park does not seem to be justified.”
Again, various studies, proposals and counter-proposals for a park took place. Some suggested a national forest be established. Then came the “dirty thirties.” Drought, overgrazing and crop failures forced many homesteaders to sell their land to the federal government for as little as $2.00 per acre. In western North Dakota land was acquired mainly for setting up leased grazing and rehabilitation. Today, most of what was purchased under the auspices of the Resettlement Act is now part of the Little Missouri National Grasslands.
A portion of these new federal holdings was earmarked for a park. In 1934 a cooperative agreement to start a Roosevelt Regional Park Project was signed by the Resettlement Administration, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), National Park Service and the State of North Dakota. The federal government wanted the project to become a state park. Within a short time after the death of Theodore Roosevelt on January 6, 1919, there were proposals to establish a memorial in his honor. Various studies took place across the country that included ideas for national parks, monuments, wildlife refuges and scenic roads as well as state parks. Sylvane Ferris, a friend and business associate of TR during his cattle ranching days in the Dakota Badlands, appointed a committee to pick a site; Medora was selected. The 1921 North Dakota legislature instructed their representatives in Congress to assist by setting land aside for a park.
The Little Missouri Badlands were explored in 1924 by a party of 40 to outline an area for a Roosevelt National Park. This tour resulted in the formation of the Roosevelt Memorial National Park Association (later, the Great North Dakota Association). The following year, a tour of “cowboys and Congressmen”, a larger group of federal, state and regional officials plus interested parties and news media conducted an inspection camping trip through the “Grand Canyon of the Little Missouri” which cemented the park idea. One early plan called for a 2030-square-mile park. But this proposal was not without its critics because it included too much good stock land for the liking of local ranchers.
Roger Toll, Superintendent of Rocky Mountain National Park, submitted a report on the proposed park to National Park Service Director Stephen T. Mather in 1928 in which he favored the establishment of a small national monument stating, “A national park does not seem to be justified.”
Again, various studies, proposals and counter-proposals for a park took place. Some suggested a national forest be established. Then came the “dirty thirties.” Drought, overgrazing and crop failures forced many homesteaders to sell their land to the federal government for as little as $2.00 per acre. In western North Dakota land was acquired mainly for setting up leased grazing and rehabilitation. Today, most of what was purchased under the auspices of the Resettlement Act is now part of the Little Missouri National Grasslands. A portion of these new federal holdings was earmarked for a park. In 1934 a cooperative agreement to start a Roosevelt Regional Park Project was signed by the Resettlement Administration, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), National Park Service and the State of North Dakota. The federal government wanted the project to become a state park.
The CCC operations began immediately and were administered by National Park Service employees. The North and South Roosevelt Regional Parks had their own camps. By 1935, these sites were designated the Roosevelt Recreation Demonstration Area (RDA). Development by workers from the CCC, as well as Works Projects Administration (WPA) and Emergency Relief Administration (ERA), included construction of roads, trails, picnic areas, campgrounds and buildings.
All projects ended in 1941. Who would accept management responsibility for this land was still uncertain. When North Dakota’s state government announced that it did not want the land as a state park, approval was obtained in 1942 to retain the RDA for the purpose of study for possible inclusion into the National Park System. North Dakota Representative William Lemke championed the fight to establish a national park, an action which met resistance from NPS officials. The next few years saw further studies and political maneuvering.
In November 1946, the RDA was officially transferred to the United States Fish and Wildlife Service as Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge after legislation to establish a park was vetoed because some felt the area did not possess those qualities that merit national park ranking. Undaunted, Congressman Lemke pressed on. Finally, on April 25, 1947, after several compromises, President Truman signed the bill (PL-38) that created Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial Park. This included lands that roughly make up the South Unit and the Elkhorn Ranch site today. The North Unit was added to the memorial park on June 12, 1948. Additional boundary revisions were made in later years.
As a memorial park, it was the only one of its kind in the National Park System. Eventually, in addition to a connection with a president, the land was recognized for its diverse cultural and natural resources. On November 10, 1978, the area was given national park status when President Carter signed Public Law 95-625 that changed the memorial park to Theodore Roosevelt National Park. This same law placed 29,920 acres of the park under the National Wilderness Preservation System.
Today, the 70,448-acre Theodore Roosevelt National Park is home to a variety of plants and animals and continues to memorialize the 26th president for his enduring contributions to the safekeeping and protection of our nation’s resources.
Attractions
South Unit
The South Unit is 130 miles west of Bismarck, North Dakota and 24 miles east of the Montana state line. The entrance to this unit is located in Medora (exits 24 and 27 off Interstate 94). The Medora Visitor Center is located at the entrance of the park and has a museum, theater and information desk. The visitor center is open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. The staff can provide information about road and trail conditions and park activities.
The museum has personal items of Theodore Roosevelt, ranching artifacts and natural history displays. Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin is located behind the visitor center and is open for tours. Ranger talks, movies, hikes, campfire programs, etc also take place at the visitor center and out in the park. See Ranger Programs for dates, times and more information.
A major feature of the South Unit is a paved, 36 mile, scenic loop road with interpretive signs that explain some of the park’s historical and natural features. A “Road Log Guide” book that explains more is also available for sale at the visitor centers or on-line at the Park Bookstore.
Painted Canyon
When traveling west on Interstate 94, your first introduction to the South Unit is the Painted Canyon Overlook (exit 32), about seven miles east of Medora. The name itself evokes an image of color and light playing across the face of a wild and broken land, of the countless individuals who have stood transfixed at the canyon rim — Native Americans, fur traders, a cavalry general, a man who would become the twenty-sixth President, naturalists, travelers and writers — all have tried to express the feeling of the moment. To many, the view has a quiet, haunting beauty.
In addition to the magnificent view, a visitor center, restrooms, picnic shelters, tables and water are available April through October. A short walk provides access during winter when facilities are closed. You can sometimes see wild horses and elk in the distance and bison occasionally roam the visitor center grounds.
Elkhorn Ranch Unit
The Elkhorn Ranch Site, which was the location of Roosevelt’s principal home in the badlands, is located 35 miles north of the Medora Visitor Center. The ranch buildings no longer exist but interpretive signs tell where the house and outbuildings were. Ask at the visitor center for access information before going to the site. Learn more about the Elkhorn Ranch and its history.
North Unit
The North Unit is located near Watford City. From Interstate 94, take US 85 North at the Belfield Exit (Exit 42) and continue north for approximately 50 miles to the park entrance.
The North Unit Visitor Center is at the park entrance and has an information desk, movie and exhibits. The staff can provide information about road and trail conditions and park activities. Also see Ranger Programs. The visitor center is open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.
Take the time to drive the 14 mile Scenic Drive that goes from the entrance station to the Oxbow Overlook, with turnouts and interpretive signs along the way. As you go along the drive, you will come to a number of trail heads (hiking). Some are self-guiding nature trails that have interpretive brochures to help you learn more about the park. Take time to get to know the park. A “Road Log Guide” is available for sale at the park visitor centers and on line at the Park Bookstore.
Recreation
Take the Drives in both units. Stop at Wind Canyon Nature Trail in the South Unit and Riverbend Overlook in the North Unit. Both are short walks and offer beautiful views of the park. Take a moment to explore the visitor centers at the north and south unit of the park. Each center offers a 13-mintue film showing seasonal scenes of the park, exhibits and sales area. Also ask at the information desk about the schedule of ranger-led programs and special events.
Biking
All roads in Theodore Roosevelt National Park are open to cyclists. The park roads follow the contours of the badlands allowing riders to enjoy the park close up. Off-road cycling is not allowed in the park. All
bicycles must remain on paved or dirt roads.
Bicyclists should exercise caution as they ride in the park; they will share the narrow roads with large RVs and other vehicles. Traffic is heaviest in June, July and August and Road shoulders are absent in some places. Bicyclists must obey all traffic laws.
Use caution around bison and all wildlife.
Getting There
By Plane
Air service is available into the North Dakota towns of Bismarck, Dickinson and Williston.
By Car
The North and South units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park are in western North Dakota.
The South Unit entrance and Visitor Center are located in Medora, just off Interstate 94 (exits 23 & 27) and is 135 miles west of Bismarck, North Dakota.
The Painted Canyon Visitor Center is located 7 miles east of Medora just off Interstate 94 at exit 32.
The North Unit entrance is located 16 miles south of Watford City along U. S. Highway 85. The distance between Medora at the South Unit and the North Unit is 70 miles via Interstate 94 and U. S. Highway 85.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
P. O. Box 7
Medora, ND 58645-0007
Phone: 701-623-4466 (South Unit Information)
Phone: 701-842-2333 (North Unit Information)
Fax: 701-623-4840
Operating Hours & Seasons
Theodore Roosevelt National Park is open all year.
Portions of the South Unit Scenic Loop Drive and North Unit Scenic Road may be closed in winter due to snow and ice.
Weather/Climate
Summers at Theodore Roosevelt National Park are warm with temperatures in the 80′s and 90′s with a few days over 100 degrees F possible. Evenings can be cool. Annual precipitation is 15 inches.
Winters are generally cold. Recommend layers of clothing, especially in spring and fall. Rain gear in spring. Hat for sun protection is needed in summer.
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