Protected within Zion National Park’s 229 square miles is a spectacular cliff-and-canyon landscape and wilderness full of the unexpected including the world’s largest arch the Kolob Arch with a span that measures 310 feet. Wildlife such as mule deer, golden eagles and mountain lions, also inhabit the Park. Mukuntuweap National Monument proclaimed July 31, 1909; incorporated in Zion National Monument March 18, 1918; established as a national park on Nov. 19, 1919.
Introduction
Zion National Park encompasses some of the most scenic canyon country in the United States. The park is characterized by high plateaus, a maze of narrow, deep, sandstone canyons and striking rock towers and mesas. Zion Canyon is the largest and most visited canyon in the park. The North Fork of the Virgin River has carved a spectacular gorge here, with canyon walls in most places rising 2000-3000 feet above the canyon floor. The southern part of the park is a lower desert area, with colorful mesas bordered by rocky canyons and washes. The northern sections of the park are higher plateaus covered by forests. Established as Mukuntuweap National Monument in 1909; name changed to Zion National Monument in 1918; expanded and established as a National Park in 1919; Kolob Canyons section established as a National Monument in 1937 and added to Zion National Park in 1956.
History & Culture
Human use of the Zion National Park landscape dates back to at least 6,000 B. C. Evidence of 6,000 years of human occupation by Archaic, Ancestral Puebloans, (known by archeologists as the Virgin Branch of the Kayenta Anasazi and Parowan Fremont) Southern Paiutes and Mormon settlers who arrived in the 1860′s. The Historic period begins in the late 1700′s, with the exploration and settlement of southern Utah by Euro-Americans. Initial explorations by traders from New Mexico blazed the Old Spanish Trail, which followed the Virgin River for a portion of its length. During the next century, American fur trappers and government surveyors added new overland travel routes across the region. In 1872, John Wesley Powell explored the areas around Zion Canyon, as part of western surveys conducted by the U. S. Geological Survey.
The early pack trails soon became well-used wagon roads, connecting Santa Fe to the California markets. In 1847, Brigham Young led members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormons) to Utah Territory, establishing settlements in the Great Salt Lake Valley. Within a decade, Mormon pioneers were sent to settle the southern part of the territory and grow cotton in Utah’s “Dixie”. Towns like Shunesberg, Springdale, Grafton, Adventure and Paradise sprang up along the upper Virgin River during the 1860′s. In 1863, Issac Behunin built the first log cabin in Zion Canyon, near the location of the Zion Lodge. Soon the canyon was dotted with other homesteads, including that of William Crawford, near Oak Creek.
During the remainder of the century, the small communities and homesteads struggled to survive. Catastrophic flooding by the river, little arable land and poor soils made agriculture in the upper Virgin River a risky venture. Some of these settlements, including Shunesberg and Grafton, were ultimately abandoned for more favorable locations.
By the first decade of the 20th century, the scenic qualities of southern Utah and Zion Canyon in particular, had been recognized as a potential destination for tourism. In 1909, a presidential Executive Order designated Mukuntuweap (Zion) National Monument, in Zion Canyon. The new monument was, however, virtually inaccessible to visitors, since the existing roads were in poor condition and the closest railhead a hundred miles away. The Utah State Road Commission, established in that year, began construction on a state highway system that would eventually improve access to the southern region. State officials also negotiated with the Union Pacific Railroad to develop rail and automobile links and tourism facilities in southern Utah. By the summer of 1917, touring cars could finally reach Wylie Camp, a tent camping resort that comprised the first visitor lodging in Zion Canyon.
In 1919, a Congressional bill designating Zion National Park was signed into law. Visitation to the new national park increased steadily during the 1920′s, particularly after the Union Pacific extended a spur rail line to Cedar City. The Utah Parks Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific, acquired the Wylie Camp in Zion and offered ten day rail/bus tours to Zion, Bryce, Kaibab and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Construction on the Zion Lodge complex, designed in “Rustic Style” by architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood, began in the mid-1920′s. In 1930, the newly completed Zion-Mt Carmel highway allowed motorists to travel through Zion to Bryce and points east. This highway was one of the greatest engineering feats of modern times, requiring the construction of a 5,613 foot tunnel to negotiate the vertical sandstone cliffs of Zion.
Visitor numbers at Zion National Park have continued to increase over time, necessitating the construction of trails, campgrounds and other facilities. The economic benefits of tourism now support the small communities surrounding the park, ensuring their survival into a new millennium of human history.
Nature & Science
Zion National Park is a showcase of geology. Geologic processes have played an important role in shaping Zion. The arid climate and sparse vegetation allow the exposure of large expanses of bare rock and reveal the park’s geologic history. Zion is located along the edge of a region called the Colorado Plateau. The rock layers have been uplifted, tilted and eroded, forming a feature called the Grand Staircase, a series of colorful cliffs stretching between Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. The bottom layer of rock at Bryce Canyon is the top layer at Zion and the bottom layer at Zion is the top layer at the Grand Canyon.
Zion was a relatively flat basin near sea level 240 million years ago. As sands, gravels and muds eroded from surrounding mountains, streams carried these materials into the basin and deposited them in layers. The sheer weight of these accumulated layers caused the basin to sink, so that the top surface always remained near sea level. As the land rose and fell and as the climate changed, the depositional environment fluctuated from shallow seas to coastal plains to a desert of massive windblown sand. This process of sedimentation continued until over 10,000 feet of material accumulated.
Mineral-laden waters slowly filtered through the compacted sediments. Iron oxide, calcium carbonate and silica acted as cementing agents and with pressure from overlying layers over long periods of time, transformed the deposits into stone. Ancient seabeds became limestone; mud and clay became mudstones and shale; and desert sand became sandstone. Each layer originated from a distinct source and so differs in thickness, mineral content, color and eroded appearance.
In an area from Zion to the Rocky Mountains, forces deep within the earth started to push the surface up. This was not chaotic uplift, but very slow vertical hoisting of huge blocks of the crust. Zion’s elevation rose from near sea level to as high as 10,000 feet above sea level.
Uplift is still occurring. In 1992 a magnitude 5.8 earthquake caused a landslide visible just outside the south entrance of the park in Springdale.
This uplift gave the streams greater cutting force in their descent to the sea. Zion’s location on the western edge of this uplift caused the streams to tumble off the plateau, flowing rapidly down a steep gradient. A fast-moving stream carries more sediment and larger boulders than a slow-moving river. These streams began eroding and cutting into the rock layers, forming deep and narrow canyons. Since the uplift began, the North Fork of the Virgin River has carried away several thousand feet of rock that once lay above the highest layers visible today.
The Virgin River is still excavating. Upstream from the Temple of Sinawava the river cuts through Navajo Sandstone, creating a slot canyon. At the Temple, the river has reached the softer Kayenta Formation below. Water erodes the shale, undermining the overlaying sandstone and causing it to collapse, widening the canyon.
Recreation
Hiking
Here are few recommendations for hiking shorter than one hour:
- Lower Emerald Pool Easy walk to a waterfall. Shuttle stop: Zion Lodge or The Grotto.
- Weeping Rock Self-guiding walk to a spring and ”hanging garden.” Shuttle stop: Weeping Rock.
- Canyon Overlook Self-guiding walk to a canyon viewpoint. Very hot by late morning. Shuttle stop: Not on shuttle loop.
If you are interested in spending a little more time on a trail, here are some great trails to try:
- Middle Emerald Pool Moderate walk to pools and waterfalls. Shuttle stop: Zion Lodge or The Grotto
- Riverside Walk Easy walk along the Virgin River. Shuttle stop: Temple of Sinawava
- Watchman Moderate walk to a viewpoint of lower Zion Canyon. Very hot by late morning. Three to four hours-round trip. Shuttle stop: Zion Canyon Visitors Center
- Hidden Canyon Fairly strenuous hike to a hanging canyon. This trail is not recommended for anyone fearful of heights. Shuttle stop: Weeping Rock
- Angels Landing Strenuous hike to a panoramic viewpoint. This trail is not recommended for anyone fearful of heights. Shuttle stop: The Grotto
- Taylor Creek, Middle Fork Moderate hike into a finger canyon of the Kolob. Shuttle stop: Not on shuttle loop
Biking
In the past most cyclists found the automobile congestion along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive to be too hazardous for riding. Thanks to the Zion Canyon Shuttle System the park is now more bicycle friendly. One may ride the Pa’ rus trail from the lower canyon and connect to Zion Canyon Scenic Drive at Canyon Junction. The shuttle buses are equipped with bike racks for those wishing to ride only part of the way. Many cyclists enjoy riding the shuttle to the Temple of Sinawava and cycling back down. Bicycles are permitted only on established roads and the Pa’rus Trail. Cyclists must obey traffic laws. Bicycles are not allowed on hiking trails or off-trail. Ride defensively; automobile traffic is often heavy and drivers may be distracted by the scenery. Riding through the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel is prohibited. Bicycles must be transported through the tunnel by motor vehicle.
Winter Sports
Cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing are possible in the higher elevations of Zion National Park and in nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument.
Scenic Drives
- Zion Canyon Scenic Drive 6 miles. Short drive along the canyon floor. Be prepared for hazardous driving conditions during and immediately following storms. Icy spots remain through the winter. Open to private vehicles during the period from November through March. Accessible the rest of the year via the Zion Canyon Shuttle only. Rt. 9, which traverses the park from east to west, is open year-round to private vehicles.
- Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway 10 miles. Steep drive up switchbacks and through tunnels to Checkerboard Mesa. See large vehicle restrictions on page 8. Be prepared for hazardous driving conditions during and immediately following storms. Icy spots remain through the winter.
- Kolob Terrace Road 14 miles. Steep drive to the high country. Not recommended for long vehicles. The road is plowed 14 miles north of Virgin, Utah. The rest of the road is closed by snow.
- Kolob Canyons 5 miles. Scenic drive skirting the Kolob ”finger canyons.” The road is plowed in winter but may be temporarily closed during storms or snow plowing.
Getting There
By Plane
The closest major airport is Las Vegas International, 150 miles from the park. There is a smaller airport in St. George, UT, 46 miles from the park.
By Car
The Visitor Center at the Kolob Canyons entrance is accessible from Interstate 15, exit 40. Interstate 15 passes west of the Park and connects with Utah 9 and 17 to the Park. US Highway 89 passes east and connects with Utah 9 to the Park. The Zion Canyon Visitor Center is a short distance from the Park’s South Entrance adjacent to Springdale.
Getting Around
From April through October, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (a park road off Route 9) is accessible by shuttle bus only. Route 9, which traverses the park from east to west, is open year-round to private vehicles.
Traveler Facts
Contact Information
Zion National Park
SR 9
Springdale, UT 84767-1099
Phone: 435-772-3256
Fax: 435-772-3426
Operating Hours & Seasons
During summer months, the visitor centers at Zion National Park are open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.. Spring, fall and winter hours are shortened. Visitor centers are closed on December 25. Call the 24 hour number for current updates at 435-772-3256.
Weather/Climate
Be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions. Temperatures vary with changes in elevation and day/night temperatures may differ by over 30F.
Spring weather is very unpredictable. Stormy, wet days are common, but warm, sunny weather may occur too. Precipitation peaks in March. Spring wildflowers bloom from April through June, peaking in May.
Summer days are hot (95-110F), but overnight lows are usually comfortable (65-70F). afternoon thunderstorms are common from mid-July through mid-September. Storms may produce waterfalls as well as flash floods.
Fall days are usually clear and mild; nights are often cool. Autumn color displays begin in September in the high country. Colors in Zion Canyon usually peak in late October.
Winter in Zion Canyon is fairly mild. Winter storms bring rain or light snow to Zion Canyon, but heavier snow to the higher elevations. Clear days may become quite warm, reaching 60F; nights are often in the 20′s and 30′s. Winter storms can last several days and cause roads to be icy. Zion roads are plowed, except the Kolob Terrace road, which is closed in winter. Be prepared for winter driving conditions from November through March.
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